Cosmetic ingredients.
What goes into this product that I am
using? This mysterious concoction claimed to have wondrous effects. So many
products to choose from!
The
field of cosmetic science is indeed a vast topic that touches every aspect of
every product we use today. It is convenient to divide the field into the
following subjects: Ingredients, technology, applications, formulations, and
research,
As you will see, there can be a lot of work
that goes into the jar of cream you have just opened, looked at, smelled, and
applied approvingly on your hand. What goes into satisfying those expectations?
The research seeks to understand and unlock
nature’s secrets so that a predictable and measurable result can be reproduced.
The cosmetics industry is filled with products developed from empirical observations,
folklore, and traditions handed down for hundreds of years. It is the never ending role of science to
separate out the merely coincidental effects of a product from the relevant
action of a product’s ingredients.
The formulation of products is a field of
its own that uses the given raw materials and determines the best way to
assemble the product together. The objective is to create a stable product that
delivers the consistent expected results from the first use till the end of the
bottle. The field examines the nature of
the emulsions, lotions and compounds to assure that their combination and final
result does not reduce the ingredient’s effectiveness. It also includes ways to
optimize shelf life, storage and dispensing.
The starting point of any good cosmetic
preparation is its purpose. It is always a targeted skin condition that one is trying to support or enhance or correct
such as mature skin or superficially dehydrated skin. Of course the formulator must bear in mind
the context to which this condition applies. This is called the skin type. A dry skin type certainly
has different requirements than an oily skin type although both may show signs
of aging or dehydration. The next step
is to determine how best to deliver and administer the ingredients. Should this
be a Cleanser, Lotion, Cream, Mask, Concentrate, applied daily, weekly,
monthly, by the consumer or the professional. Is special equipment required or
procedure to follow to release active ingredients?. Is it consumer friendly,
marketable?
Technology has permitted the development of
super fine cosmetic preparations. Micronizing (reduced to small particle sizes
of a few microns) and nanno technology (even smaller sizes) permits the
creation of Micro-Emulsions that assure better actives distribution and more
effective skin absorbency. Micro encapsulations in tiny spheres called liposomes
permit better assimilation, whereas the multi lamellar structure of spherulites
give a time release effect. Even the timing and point when an ingredient is
added within the production of a cream can alter the effect of the ingredient
to the point of rendering it ineffective.
Ingredients are the resources the scientist
has at his disposal. Nature has provided endless resources. Simple molecules
such as water and oxygen are abundant. Purified water is different than
distilled water, mineral rich water, or treated water. The more complex the product being formulated
and the more active ingredients, then the more interactions there will be
between the various compounds. The calming effect of Chamomile has
led to the discovery of its blue oil ( azulene) and further Bisabolol ( with
its concentrated soothing effect). Honey has led to the discovery of Royal
Gele, Propolis ( with its 3 natural antibiotics) and regenerating sugar
compounds. A micro explosion process of
micronized seaweed permits the release of iodine rich compounds, vitamins, and
enzymes from the seaweed’s thick walled cells.
The latest trend is a series of products
containing Caviar. How elegant, how decadent! But all caviar is not created
equal… Just as
On the market, there are many cosmetic products
claiming to have Caviar or Caviar extract, but on closer inspection, some have
salmon roe or other fish roe or even shrimp roe extract. Let the buyer beware.
Just as examination of a sparkling wine compared to
As an example, let me share with you the
background of Pevonia’s Myoxy-Caviar®™ product range positioned as a “
Timeless Rejuvenation” series. There are consumer products, professional
products and professional institute “Cure” treatments. Targeted to address concerns for visible lines
and wrinkles, lack of elasticity, photo damage, dehydration and much more…we
will see that nothing was left to chance.
Caviar is sought after for its nucleic
aids, amino acids, phospholipids, minerals, and vitamins. Not only their specific content but also in
the proportions that they occur and their degree of biological activity. Pevonia
has selected a species of sturgeon from the
Synergistically, pearls have more to offer
than their luster, appearance, and beauty. On further inspection, the elemental
calcium and carbonate secreted by the oyster is very pure. Between the nacreous
layers are fibrous layers consisting of protein chains, polysaccharides and
hyaluronic acid ( great for binding moisture) . A pearl extract is created.
The botanical kingdom is rich in resources.
Pevonia has formulated a blend of indigenous plants from South Asia, Feinbos
from
The synergy of natural source ingredients,
and the relative proportions selected, have a particular affinity and
compatibility with the skin incorporating ingredients similar to our own skin
yet with the enhancing properties of the actives. Precise clinical tests showed
an improvement of 48% on deep wrinkles and 45% on skin firmness.
A luxurious presentation complements
Pevonia’s Myoxi-Caviar creation. Available at selective Spas . Pevonia is
dedicated to produce skin care products uniting science and nature.
Next time you go to a Spa to buy your
products… Read the ingredients… ask the therapist for clarification so that you
can get the skin care you deserve.