What is in a product if not ingredients and technology

Posted by Ron Jean on 6/28/2013 to Ingredients

Cosmetic ingredients.


What goes into this product that I am using? This mysterious concoction claimed to have wondrous effects. So many products to choose from!


 The field of cosmetic science is indeed a vast topic that touches every aspect of every product we use today. It is convenient to divide the field into the following subjects: Ingredients, technology, applications, formulations, and research,


As you will see, there can be a lot of work that goes into the jar of cream you have just opened, looked at, smelled, and applied approvingly on your hand. What goes into satisfying those expectations?


The research seeks to understand and unlock nature’s secrets so that a predictable and measurable result can be reproduced. The cosmetics industry is filled with products developed from empirical observations, folklore, and traditions handed down for hundreds of years.  It is the never ending role of science to separate out the merely coincidental effects of a product from the relevant action of a product’s ingredients.


The formulation of products is a field of its own that uses the given raw materials and determines the best way to assemble the product together. The objective is to create a stable product that delivers the consistent expected results from the first use till the end of the bottle.  The field examines the nature of the emulsions, lotions and compounds to assure that their combination and final result does not reduce the ingredient’s effectiveness. It also includes ways to optimize shelf life, storage and dispensing.


The starting point of any good cosmetic preparation is its purpose. It is always a targeted skin condition that one is trying to support or enhance or correct such as mature skin or superficially dehydrated skin.  Of course the formulator must bear in mind the context to which this condition applies. This is called the skin type. A dry skin type certainly has different requirements than an oily skin type although both may show signs of aging or dehydration.  The next step is to determine how best to deliver and administer the ingredients. Should this be a Cleanser, Lotion, Cream, Mask, Concentrate, applied daily, weekly, monthly, by the consumer or the professional. Is special equipment required or procedure to follow to release active ingredients?. Is it consumer friendly, marketable?


Technology has permitted the development of super fine cosmetic preparations. Micronizing (reduced to small particle sizes of a few microns) and nanno technology (even smaller sizes) permits the creation of Micro-Emulsions that assure better actives distribution and more effective skin absorbency. Micro encapsulations in tiny spheres called liposomes permit better assimilation, whereas the multi lamellar structure of spherulites give a time release effect. Even the timing and point when an ingredient is added within the production of a cream can alter the effect of the ingredient to the point of rendering it ineffective.


Ingredients are the resources the scientist has at his disposal. Nature has provided endless resources. Simple molecules such as water and oxygen are abundant. Purified water is different than distilled water, mineral rich water, or treated water.  The more complex the product being formulated and the more active ingredients, then the more interactions there will be between the various compounds. The calming effect of Chamomile   has led to the discovery of its blue oil ( azulene) and further Bisabolol ( with its concentrated soothing effect). Honey has led to the discovery of Royal Gele, Propolis ( with its 3 natural antibiotics) and regenerating sugar compounds.  A micro explosion process of micronized seaweed permits the release of iodine rich compounds, vitamins, and enzymes from the seaweed’s thick walled cells.


The latest trend is a series of products containing Caviar. How elegant, how decadent! But all caviar is not created equal…  Just as Champagne is properly designated as a specific beverage and process from the Champagne district of France, the food industry reserves the word Caviar used on its own  to be the eggs or roe produced by sturgeon.  Should one provide Salmon roe of Herring roe or Lumpfish roe one must specify Salmon Caviar if the word Caviar is to be used.  This is not the case however in the Cosmetic industry.


On the market, there are many cosmetic products claiming to have Caviar or Caviar extract, but on closer inspection, some have salmon roe or other fish roe or even shrimp roe extract. Let the buyer beware. Just as examination of a sparkling wine compared to Champagne will reveal its differences, so is it with Caviar. Salmon roe has more water, Caviar is richer in phospholipids for instance. 


As an example, let me share with you the background of Pevonia’s  Myoxy-Caviar®™ product range positioned as a “ Timeless Rejuvenation” series. There are consumer products, professional products and professional institute “Cure” treatments.  Targeted to address concerns for visible lines and wrinkles, lack of elasticity, photo damage, dehydration and much more…we will see that nothing was left to chance.


Caviar is sought after for its nucleic aids, amino acids, phospholipids, minerals, and vitamins.  Not only their specific content but also in the proportions that they occur and their degree of biological activity. Pevonia has selected a species of sturgeon from the Caspian Sea regarded to be a clean consistent source of Caviar. After extraction and cleaning, the Russian Caviar had to be immediately preserved to prevent decrease in effectiveness. Conventional packaging, bottling, or freeze drying was not giving the desired results. They had to develop a process that upon the addition of water would reconstitute the Caviar into its original level of activity.  This expensive process is called Filmotech™ and does not alter the purity and integrity of components.


Synergistically, pearls have more to offer than their luster, appearance, and beauty. On further inspection, the elemental calcium and carbonate secreted by the oyster is very pure. Between the nacreous layers are fibrous layers consisting of protein chains, polysaccharides and hyaluronic acid ( great for binding moisture) . A pearl extract is created.


The botanical kingdom is rich in resources. Pevonia has formulated a blend of indigenous plants from South Asia, Feinbos from Africa, and an extract of from the naturally ripened seeds of Hibiscus esculentus .  This blend called Escutox™ is presented as a topical, natural alternative to botox ( Botox® is a registered trademark of Allergan, Inc.) 


The synergy of natural source ingredients, and the relative proportions selected, have a particular affinity and compatibility with the skin incorporating ingredients similar to our own skin yet with the enhancing properties of the actives. Precise clinical tests showed an improvement of 48% on deep wrinkles and 45% on skin firmness.


A luxurious presentation complements Pevonia’s Myoxi-Caviar creation. Available at selective Spas . Pevonia is dedicated to produce skin care products uniting science and nature.


Next time you go to a Spa to buy your products… Read the ingredients… ask the therapist for clarification so that you can get the skin care you deserve.

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